[funfel]

[SPAMU¦]

[Firq]

funfel, film bedzie na 100% tylko z czasem troszke się nie wyrabiam bo w nocy z pracy wracam i nie mam kiedy nakręcić bo jak kieruje z 20 godzin w pracy to potem nie chce mi się wchodzić znowu za kłóko i kręcic filma... ale dam rade w weekend

[Brt]

szosownik ... tani chip ... poszukaj tematy chipowanie SDI za 7 PLN ... sprawdzone i działa i włączasz kiedy potrzebujesz a ze przez chwilę troche bardziej dymi ... co do chipowania, to też uważam, ze zmiana na kompa od MG nic nie wniesie ... lepiej poprawić mapy na swoim kompie

[Remigiusz]

Widze ze ciekawy temat mnie ominął Nie wiem czemu ale był na IGNORE

Firq, i jak z tymi filmikami i zdjęciami Dalej nic nie ma


Sobie dziś przeczytałem znów kilka ciekawych wątków na angielskim forum
Ja u siebie mam jakieś 1.1bara do 1.2bara na Turbinie ale chce to wyregulować na 1.3 tylko nie mogę czasu znaleźć bo ciągle coś innego w Roverku trzeba robić

A u siebie to tej pory zrobiłem takie mody jak:

Decating
EGR zaślepione oraz wywalone do piwnicy
IC z SDi
Ciśnienie 1.1-1.2bara
zamknięta odma -> wstawiony separator oleju

Nastepna rzecz jaka wejdzie moze uzbieram kase to filtr ITG WB-290 , nawet RoverRon go poleca na angielskim forum

I na tym się pewno u mnie zakończy Tuning L-serie bo już mam dość lądowania kasy w auto i ciągle coś nowego się wymyślało

Jeszce by wydech korcił ale Wingy back box:

[Krzysi3k]

[Remigiusz]

Krzysi3k5, Tak tak to jest co lepszego od K&N zresztą widać po cenie
Tak on wygląda:


Jeszcze by można wsadzić Airboxa albo Filtr stożkowy, bo co ciekawego wyczytałem ostaniu na angielskim forum :

Cytat:

Big cone filter, time to ditch the panel filter in place of a big cone. Heat soak isn’t a terribly big issue with these diesels

Tylko ze to już chyba raczej większe koszty

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dodam tutaj jeszcze fajny opis Tuning Diesels

Stage 1: 125-130bhp
This is a very achievable level of tune for this engine. For this sort of power gains, you are looking at:

Rover 200/400/600:

SDi/Di (intercooled):

* A TU1 tuning box from Rover Ron (£70)
* Decatting your exhaust. This can be done by either gutting out your existing cat, or getting a decat pipe from Wingy on this forum (beware of BHP BOOSTERS on ebay, their pipes are too small and so hinder performance instead of increasing it!)(£40)
* Upping the boost (can be done manually by adjusting the actuator – 19psi is considered optimum for the standard turbo) A boost gauge is required really as otherwise you will not know how much you are upping the boost to and running too high boost can damage your turbo and engine. (about £20 for boost gauge)
* Air filter. For this level of tune a decent panel filter will more than suffice. Buying a BMC panel filter from Rover Ron is a good idea as it can be ordered with your TU1. (£40)

These simple mods can all be fitted easily by almost anyone so unless you are completely useless then you don’t have to consider garage bills. So a good stage 1 tune will cost you around the £170 mark.


SD/D (non intercooled)

* Fitting an intercooler. This will help a lot. To fit a standard intercooler from an intercooled model is easy enough and will probably cost around £100 if you get the parts from a scrapyard.
* Upping the fuel on the mechanical pump. Never done this myself but from what I understand there is a screw which you can adjust manually to give the engine more fuel. This is a delicate business so be a bit careful.
* Decatting your exhaust. This can be done by either gutting out your existing cat, or getting a decat pipe from Wingy on this forum (beware of BHP BOOSTERS on ebay, their pipes are too small and so hinder performance instead of increasing it!)(£40)
* Upping the boost (can be done manually by adjusting the actuator – 19psi is considered optimum for the standard turbo) A boost gauge is required really as otherwise you will not know how much you are upping the boost to and running too high boost can damage your turbo and engine. (about £20 for boost gauge)
* Air filter. For this level of tune a decent panel filter will more than suffice. Buying a BMC panel filter from Rover Ron is a good idea. (£40)

These can all be done by the amateur mechanic so again garage bills aren’t an issue. A good stage 1 tune will cost you around the £200 mark.


Rover 25/45 / MG ZR/ZS

* Decatting your exhaust. This can be done by either gutting out your existing cat, or getting a decat pipe from Wingy on this forum (beware of BHP BOOSTERS on ebay, their pipes are too small and so hinder performance instead of increasing it!)(£40)
* Upping the boost (can be done manually by adjusting the actuator – 19psi is considered optimum for the standard turbo) A boost gauge is required really as otherwise you will not know how much you are upping the boost to and running too high boost can damage your turbo and engine. (about £20 for boost gauge)
* Air filter. For this level of tune a decent panel filter will more than suffice. Buying a BMC panel filter from Rover Ron is a good idea. (£40)
* A good remap will take you up to 130bhp or so with these mods, but if you are considering further tuning, then it will be best to leave it until last, so leave the remap for now.

These mods will probably set you back around £100 without the remap, while the remap will add another £250-300.






Stage 2: 135-150bhp
This is where a bit of money starts being spent. On top of a Stage 1 tune, for this amount of power, you’ll need:

Rover 200/400/600 (both intercooled and non-intercooled):

* A full exhaust system. A Wingy system would be best but powerflow are also quite good. You’re probably looking at around £300 or so for one of these as it’ll probably have to be a custom job.
* A chip. A chip will give you even more fuel on top of a TU1 so is always a good idea. This will probably be around £200 from most places.
* Big cone filter, time to ditch the panel filter from stage 1 in place of a big cone. Heat soak isn’t a terribly big issue with these diesels and with the injectors especially you’ll need as much air flow into the engine as possible! These normally set you back around £60
* An FMIC install. This will have to be a custom job as unfortunately there aren’t any off the shelf kits available (yet). Most people get theirs done for around £250. This is VERY beneficial so is a must if looking for big power!
* Modified injectors. This is a bit of a sore subject as with the other mods listed, although they will no doubt give you very good gains, the car will smoke quite badly. To get rid of this (some people don’t bother), you’ll either have to drop the injectors and live with the 135bhp or so you’ll have, or move on to a stage 3 tune. If going with these injectors then the chip mentioned earlier will not be necessary as you will be getting plenty of fuel without it! Modified injectors are usually around £200 plus about £50 for the injectors themselves.

An extra 10bhp or so doesn’t sound like a lot from Stage 1 to Stage 2, especially for the cost, but you will be producing monster torque with these mods, so they will make quite a bit of a difference. This level of tune will probably set you back between £700-1000.


Rover 25/45 / MG ZR/ZS

* SDi injectors. Injectors from an older L series will give you quiet a nice power gain, without creating too much smoke (like fully modified injectors). These are only around £50 from ebay, or a scrapyard, but it isn’t a bad idea to get them professionally checked out and cleaned, as they will more than likely have done quite a few miles.
* Big cone filter, time to ditch the panel filter from stage 1 in place of a big cone. Heat soak isn’t a terribly big issue with these diesels and with the injectors especially you’ll need as much air flow into the engine as possible! These normally set you back around £60
* A full exhaust system. A Wingy system would be best but powerflow are also quite good. You’re probably looking at around £300 or so for one of these as it’ll probably have to be a custom job. These will aid with the air flow even more and will make the car feel much more responsive.
* Remap. Finish off with a nice remap (if you don’t plan on taking the tuning any further). The engine should be running spot on, possibly with a little bit of black smoke, and you should have a fairly quick diesel on your hands. A good remap will probably set you back around £250.

These mods will make your car feel nice and responsive, as well as giving you masses of torque! For all of this, you’re probably looking at between £500 and £700



Please note that with this level of torque, the clutch and gearbox will be at about their limits, so try and be a bit gentle.




Stage 3:150 – 180bhp
This is where things start getting a) very expensive and b) very fun! The exact power you will achieve at this level will depend on the condition of your engine, and also whether it is the older or newer engine. If it is an old and shagged Rover 220, for example (rather like mine lol) then although it will still be very fast, not as fast as it could be. If, however, it’s an 06 reg Rover 25 with 5,000 miles on the clock, you’re laughing!


If your engine has done a few miles, it is probably wise at this point to clean out your inlet system and intercooler, to maximise the air flow of the turbo.

For the newer engines, it’s time at this point to do what the older engines had to do earlier. Things like an FMIC install and modified injectors are definitely a good idea.

* First thing you need to do if you’re looking at this level of power is upgrade your transmission. The colossal amount of torque you will be producing will simply rip apart the standard clutch and gearbox. Upgrading the box to steel caged bearings and getting a decent Kevlar clutch will mean you can carry on tuning the engine to your heart’s content! Upgrading the ‘box will probably cost about £700 and the clutch will be somewhere around the £300 mark, so budget a grand for transmission upgrades.
* If you haven’t bothered with the modified injectors yet, then it’s definitely time to go for them, because they will take full advantage of….
* A hybrid turbo. At the moment there are 2 hybrids available to my knowledge. Both are made by Matt (pocketbikeuk on this forum). A stage 1 and a stage 2. The stage 1 is around £400 IIRC and the stage 2 is £700. The stage 1 will get you to around 160bhp mark easily enough with the other mods, but the stage 2 will flow enough air for 180bhp + (These units can take much higher boost than the standard item so the intercooler hoses will also need to be upgraded, these are usually around £110 for a set, and a new downpipe will also aid in air flow, budget around £150 for one of these.)
* Porting the inlet system out is a good idea for this to aid with air flow but is not essential, but if you’re taking it out to clean it anyway then you might as well lol
* The later L series will probably need a good mapping session to get the most out of these mods, so set aside a couple of hundred quid at least for this.

This lot will prob set you back at least another £1500, so make sure your wallet is fat enough!






Stage 4: 180bhp+
You’re stepping into the unknown here really, but consider the following things:

* A bigger turbo, try getting hold of an even bigger and better hybrid. With modified injectors it’s probably still the air side of things that’s holding you back so get as much air in there as possible! Start thinking about possible a T25 hybrid…
* Head work. The VW boys reckon you can get reasonable gains from doing a bit of head work, this’ll probably cost around the £500 mark.#
* Custom manifolds. Try getting some custom exhaust and inlet manifolds made up, to maximise air flow.
* cams - no company makes an off the shelf oerformance camshaft kit for the L series (yet), so maybe try and get piper or kent to make you up a set from a set of blanks?
* Nitrous?
* LPG injection?
* Water injection?
* The L series was developed into the G series just before MG Rover went bust. This was a 16v common rail engine based around the L series. If you could get hold of one of these then you’re laughing. These were designed to come with either 100bhp, 130, or 160 IIRC. This would make a very good starting point for tuning, and something a little different.

The sky’s the limit to be honest. If you’ve got the money then go for it!

[Krzysi3k]

Mam kupować teraz filtr, myślałem nad K&N, ale możliwe, że na ten się skuszę
239 PLN to podobna cena do K&N
Ten sklep jest zaufany?

[ Dodano: Czw Paź 01, 2009 13:28 ]
Do mojego ten chyba:
Pisze, że do wszystkich poza 1.8 VVC
http://www.re5pect.pl/ind...ct&prod_id=2096

[Remigiusz]

Krzysi3k5,

aha nie wiem ile K&N kosztuje ale cos ok 180zl

Nie nie ten ten co ja dałem na gorze jest ten filtry który pasuje do wszystkich Diesli! W końcu mamy te same filtry powietrza WB-290 musi to byc
http://www.re5pect.pl/ind...ct&prod_id=2091

Tak w sumie to jedyny sprzedawca na polskim rynku bo sprawdzałem na stronie ITG jest ten sklep re5pect Wiec zaufany raczej.

[ Dodano: Czw Paź 01, 2009 13:54 ]

[Krzysi3k]

No to pewnie ten co mówisz
Ale na stronie jest niewyjaśnione do końca
Bo w tym filtrze, co ja podałem jest napisane - " Wkład filtra powietrza ITG do Rover 25 Wszytkie modele oprócz MGZR160 [WB-218]"

[Remigiusz]

Krzysi3k5,

Tak ale nie pisze nic od Dieslu Wszystkie modele R25 ale tu chodzi o benzynę bo jak wiadomo Diesel ma całkiem inny filtr. Nawet w Tuning książeczce RoverRona pisze ze WB-290

Cytat:

The same one fits ALL the L series diesels Part no. WB-290

Cytat:

The most cost effective inlet mod is simply to replace the element with an ITG one. Shown opposite. I recommend these as they are pre-oiled for life, so there is little risk of excess oil getting on to the maf sensor. To clean it, simply vacuum it from the air intake side. Mine usually has a substantial menagerie of insects attached to it after a few thousand miles so I vac it about every 10k.

[Krzysi3k]

Spoko, spoko, ja rozumiem
Ale ich błąd, bo nie wspomnieli, o dieslu ani benzynie tylko, że do wszystkich z wyjątkiem 1.8 VVC (ZR 160 )

[Remigiusz]

tutaj jeszcze mały opis o ciśnieniu:

Cytat:

Its amusing to note the claims by tuning companies that somehow, by not increasing the boost pressure their products are prolonging engine life. With the L series, there is no direct boost control other than the wastegate, so any tuning will increase the pressure up to the wastegate opening pressure. Also, increasing the power and torque by ANY means is a departure from the factory specs. Yes, raising the boost of a petrol engine can be detrimental as weak mixtures lead to detonation, burnt valves and melted pistons. But on diesels. which run with an open intake and an excess of air, more air is NOT detrimental. In fact it can reduce cylinder temperatures on part throttle which is beneficial. If there is a surplus of fuel under full throttle, the extra air will release more power, if not, raising the pressure may have little or no effect. It costs nothing to try, just stick to under 20psi.

[Krzysi3k]

Ten ITG czyści się podobnie to tego K&N, tak? Umyć wodą i olejkiem popryskać.
Krążą plotki, że przepływka od tego pada, ale poszperałem po internecie i ludzie raczej z K&Nów zadowoleni, to ITG jeszcze lepszy powinien być

[dobryziom]

ITG łapie więcej syfu to jest gąbka... ludzie tez się na początku zachwycali gąbkami HKS a później szybko zdejmowali ponieważ maja bardzo kiepska filtracje i szybko łapią wilgoć...

[Remigiusz]

Krzysi3k5, Z tego ci pisałem wyżej się go tylko odkurza i nie trzeba oliwić od nowa. Jest do końca swojego życia naoliwiony

dobryziom, Nie rozumie twojej wypowiedzi

Filtr papierowy tez dużo syfu łapię bo to jest jego zadanie żeby syf łapał i dlatego się go wymienia lub w tych innych filtrach czyści. A k&N to tez nic innego jak bawełna

Moim zdaniem jest lepsza gąbka bo można ładnie odkurzyć potem sobie i ma sie spokój.

[dobryziom]

chodzi o to ze gąbka ma mniejsza gęstość i tak jak pisałem puszcza więcej syfu... dużo osób co założyło do subaru stożek ITG zarżnęło turbiny... i to co wcześniej pisałem gąbka ściąga wodę do stożków gąbkowych już parę firm produkuje tzw. woreczki które się zakłada żeby nie wilgotniały...

[Krzysi3k]

Ehh, czyli wszystko niedobre. To może kupię filtr papierowy...?

[Remigiusz]

dobryziom, aha w tym sensie. No to możliwe. To moze jednak faktycznie K&N i olejowanie tego. Mi tam rybka z przepływka bo i tak jest cala w oleju wiec pewno nie działa

A co sadzisz o Airboxach ?

Krzysi3k5, No ja do tej pory na papierowym ciągnąłem 27zl tylko kosztuje ale jak sie po np 15.000 km wymieni taki filtr to czuć od razu kopa w aucie

W sumie filtrach chodzi o to żeby było jak najwięcej powierzchni filtrującej a nie wielkość samego filtra.

[dobryziom]

[Remigiusz]

Cytat:

airbox dobra sprawa chociaż spełnia dokładnie identyczna funkcje jak porządna wkładka z dobrym szczelnym dolotem... z tym kopem to jest dokładnie to co mówiłem po paru tys. ten filtr praktycznie nic nie puszcza... ja polecam zwykłą wkładkę k&n do tego dobry dolot i powinieneś być w pełni zadowolony sprawdzony temat.

No mój juz teraz ma zaledwie 7tys km a brudny jest jak coś i dlatego będzie mnie teraz czekała jak wrócę do polski wymiana oleju oraz filtrów przed zima Mi z tego względu by lepiej Airbox pasował bo bym zyskał na miejscu. Wywail bym obudowe filtra + przeplywke. Bo niestety mi ociera waz od Klimy Diavia od puszkę powietrza i dobrze ze to zauważyłem, bo by mi sie całkiem przedarł. Owinąłem go wężem gumowym i pianka na rury